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buy local. eat local. knit local?

12/4/2015

 
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I've been thinking about the concept of local quite a lot over the past six months or so, and then a post I read on Truly Myrtle's blog about community a few days ago reignited a few things I've been pondering and mulling over. Libby's post explores aspects of the knitting community that are important to her, and it's these thoughts on community that kept drawing me back to the local question and I felt a need to get some of it down in written form. 

The knitting community, while it is a worldwide community, does have a sense of closeness and familiarity to it. The prevalence and popularity of indie designers and yarnies I think enables it to feel like a much smaller place than it is. The power of the internet facilitates a connection with those we share a similar interest, regardless of their geographical location.  We feel like we know people despite the many miles separating us. Images on social media such as Instagram, Twitter and even Ravelry invite us into other people's lives and give us a familiarity with them that we may not even have with some of the immediate neighbours in our street.

This got me thinking about some of the similarities between this knitting community and the everyday communities that we live in. 

One of the aspects I find most interesting is the embrace and rise of the buy local campaign. Farmers markets, local craft markets and small independent businesses have all fuelled the push to support local production over the ever encroaching reach of big businesses and supermarket duopolies. It's a campaign that has a great deal of credibility and makes a lot of sense environmentally, ethically and financially. Ethical consumption is increasingly becoming a big business as more and more people embrace this lifestyle. Eating local and in season in particularly, leaves a much smaller carbon footprint on the earth. As does supporting locally produced wares instead of the cheap mass produced stuff that is imported and fills the giant chain stores in our cities. 

Along with this buy local campaign, I think there's also been an increasing awareness of the benefits of organic produce. Just about every farmer's market now proudly boasts of produce that is spray free, pesticide free, biodynamic and organic. This, I feel is a good thing. I am a big fan of avoiding unnecessary chemicals in every facet of my life. (I want to explore a little more the disconnect I see between the value we place on what we fuel our bodies with and what we apply or put on it; but I think I'll save that for another post. There's a whole lot of complex and interesting issues that I want to raise when I look at this.) 

So how does this all correspond to the knitting community? 
What has buying local and in season food got to do with buying yarn?

Quite a lot actually. I think the reasons to do so in each case have similar merits in terms of supporting the farmers local to us and minimising our own carbon footprint.

In the US market there has been a definite trend that embraces the local American raised and produced yarns. Think Quince and Co and Brooklyn Tweed. These two brands perhaps best epitomise the yarn companies who have built their brands by focusing on the origins of their yarn and celebrates their unique US heritage. Increasingly, yarn consumers in the US are looking to support and buy local; yarns that are tied to geographical locations that are familiar to them. If there's mention of a farm gate involved, even better. 

Connected somehow with this local yarn love is a subtle increasing awareness of the diversity of sheep breeds available. Sectors of the knitting community are increasingly piqued by talk of Cormo, Gotland, Polwarth, Targhee, Blue Faced Leicester and Romney sheep. Just like in the food industry, source of origin and breed specifics is becoming increasingly important to some knitters. We want to know what the breed is that we're knitting with. We want to know where the sheep came from. In some cases, we even want to know about farming practices. 

This direction is being echoed throughout Europe where the focus is increasingly directed towards locally raised yarns and rare breeds. More and more farmers are taking the leap into manufacturing their own small label yarns with breed and locality again being the selling point. Take the example of Blacker Yarns who boast a yarn which is made entirely from fleece that was farmed within 100 miles of the mill.  

The food industry's love for the paddock to platter philosophy is indeed taking hold as knitters embrace their own version of the farmgate to FO. Is it a natural progression from the food industry or is it more about the increasing familiarity within our industry? Ravelry and social media has created this community where we are familiar with designers, we KNOW their names, we know plenty about their lives and loves. We can interact with them. We can know them. We can follow them. Designers are no longer anonymous. Some even have celebrity status.  Is it only natural then, that the next step in this development of community familiarity is that we want to know more about the yarn we are knitting with and the sheep it came from?

Now to bring it back to this question of local, I want to think about the Australian perspective. We have absolutely no shortage of good local yarns that fit the criteria of the farm gate to FO trend. 

When Kylie Gusset launched her Ton of Wool campaign way back in 2011, it was a campaign that focussed on both the local aspect of yarn and the distinctiveness of the breed. Cormo is a rare sheep breed that was developed in Australia. This was to be the first time Cormo yarn was produced in such a manner in Australia, with the real kudos being that this yarn was sourced from the very family who created the Cormo breed. 

Similar credentials apply to the glorious Polwarth yarn from Tarndie where sheep wear little jackets to protect their precious wool. Polwarth wears the badge of being Australia's first breed of sheep. The Dennis family, who still operate the farm near Birregurra, and have done so since 1840, produce and sell their own yarn and their very specific story via their farm gate. If you've never visited the homestead and wandered through the wool room and studio, I suggest you do so. 

A more recent yarn line to enter the local Australian scene is White Gum Wool, a beautiful supersoft Saxon Merino that is ethically farmed in Tasmania. Nan Bray brings a very special kind of attention to detail to her farming story; her sheep are neither mulesed nor have their tales docked and she follows the principles of nutritional wisdom and maintaining natural social structure within her flock. There are a couple of fabulous interviews with Nan on her website that are well worth watching.

These are just some of the Australian yarn stories that are all about source, breed and locality. Beyond the stories though, all three of these brands produce wonderful amazing yarns. This is just the tip of the flock and there are many more local stories to be found and I am hoping to explore such stories in more detail in the future. I feel these are stories that need to be told, explore and shared.  I'm hoping to share a series of blog posts under the title Local Love. Watch this space as this could be a long term project. 

So are Australians embracing the buy local principle when it comes to yarn purchasing? 
I'm not sure. I do think Australian knitters suffer a wee bit from a grass is greener syndrome and some of the "celebrity" type yarns from overseas woo them effortlessly, while equally fabulous locally produced yarns (with a much smaller ecological footprints I may add) are overlooked.  This concerns me. Our fall from the sheep's back has been quite a disastrous one. Our industry here is small, but there is diversity, plenty of it if you care to explore and look for it. Our sheep farmers face the same prospects as those in food production, possibly a more difficult scenario with the  competing interests of overseas production taken into account. 

I'm not saying you should never buy overseas yarn. There's certainly a place for that. My goodness, where would we be without our fix of Noro (which incidentally is spun from  Polwarth raised in Australia for Noro)! But if your beliefs embrace ethical consumption and you are conscious of supporting local farmers when it comes to your food choices, I do ask you to question whether you are knitting local? 

I'd love to hear your thoughts on this, as to whether or not you knit local and why or why not. I'd love to hear from you regardless of your location (Australian or overseas); I want to know what is local to you and what that means to you, if anything. How do you feel about the concept of knitting local?


Marie link
16/4/2015 02:11:01 pm

Hmm, that is an interesting thought ..and has me thinking as I've been trying to do everything else that you mentioned in your post. Why don't I buy local yarn? Hmm, price for a start. I knit as a hobby and being a stay-at-home-mum price is a major factor. Colour choices might be a second choice but then I just realised that the last two things that I knit/crocheted were actually from Bendigo Woollen Mills, so I guess that is my local contribution!

Georgie
16/4/2015 04:21:24 pm

BWM is definitely a local yarn!
Yes, price can be a factor for local yarns.
Naturally, when yarns aren't being scoured or processed in China, where working conditions and wages aren't always a priority, they are going to be cheaper than yarn processed where workers are paid a decent wage. :)

Marie link
16/4/2015 02:12:06 pm

ooop, I forgot to mention that I grew up only wearing handknits that were handspun from our own sheep in our back paddock ... so I'm giving myself some kudos for that!!

Georgie
16/4/2015 04:22:17 pm

Well yes, that definitely deserves massive kudos. Wouldn't it be lovely to have a sheep or two in the back paddock and be able to spin from those sheep!

Rebecca link
16/4/2015 02:15:33 pm

A timely post indeed as I think local yarns in Australia are at a bit of a cross roads. All those yarns you mentioned are actually spun in NZ as there are no small mills left. Scouring is also becoming more difficult to do locally. The bigger yarn companies like Cleckheaton send to China for processing and spinning. It has become increasingly expensive for smaller wool producers to make yarn. I think folks do yearn for a yarn that is produced wholly in Australia as they see being done in the US and UK. Other local yarns are Bennett and Gregor, Jarob Farm for Corridale and English Leicester and Granite Haven for Gotland. There are quite a few small alpaca mills in Victoria so for a truly local (grown, processed and spun) product you would need to look at alpaca yarn.

Georgie
16/4/2015 04:36:31 pm

So true Rebecca, unfortunately to take the fleece right through the production process in Australia is a bit of a minefield. In the past I know small processors have had to go through three different processing companies to transform fleece to yarn.
I know that Nan's intentions was to create solely Australian made yarn but it wasn't possible as no one here could deal with her fine micron yarn. Others tell me its not a smooth process.
My understanding is that scouring is not much of a problem as the spinning, my research late last year found four scourers operating in this part of Australia, three of which are within 100kms of me. My understanding was that for small scale operations, its really only possible to get yarn woollen spun (at Creswick Woollen Mills, I think from memory) not worsted, so the spinning is more of an issue.
Interestingly, Nundle Woollen Mill does now produce their yarn entirely in Australia. I wonder if there is an option for them to take on consignment spinning and processing?

I've knit with both Bennet and Gregor and Granite Haven and they are on my list to explore some more, but I'm not familiar with Jacob Farm so will check them out. Do you have a link for them? My google-fu is failing me in finding them.

Rebecca link
16/4/2015 05:37:11 pm

I didn't know that about Nundle, how lovely. It is very very difficult for small yarn producers in Australia and their product is very precious I reckon. It is Jarob Farm, my device might have auto corrected to Jacob. Link is http://www.jarobfarm.com.au

Sam link
16/4/2015 02:20:54 pm

Supporting local is important to me, and I try my best to do so. I'm in Victoria, and I usually buy my yarn from Bendigo Woollen Mills via internet/post. I have recently discovered, however, that my young daughter has quite sensitive skin, and the 'normal' woollen yarn is too scratchy for her. The last thing I knitted, a shor sleeve summer cardi, was worn once with copious scratching, then the second and third times yanked off and thrown onto the floor. Which, given that she's not even two and doesn't usually pay attention to her clothes, was enough to give me pause. I have sensitive skin myself, so I couldn't blame her, even though it was disappointing to see my hard work only worn once.

It leaves me with a dilemma, too. Most of my yarn stash is now unusable, and a large portion of the BWM range is negated from my buying options. Cotton is okay, and some of the blended yarns (I have a wool/mohair/bamboo blend which is okay but you can't get it now) but they are significantly higher priced, and we're a single income family. In fact, a lot of the yarn sellers that are local are either straight wool, internet sales (meaning I can't see how scratchy it is before I buy it) or very expensive. As a craftsperson I believe in paying what a product is worth, but as a parent I just don't have the money to spend.

This pretty much forces me to big chain companies, where I can hold the balls of yarn in my hands and feel if they are going to be itchy in advance. These places can be cheaper (although not always) but I am aware they are not always Australian, particularly where the synthetics are concerned.

I'm not sure what the answer is here, because I fully support the idea of being independent and supporting locally, but there's a definite issue when the cost of living seems disproportionately high compared to earnings, particularly when skin sensitivity forces me into the more boutique yarns.

Georgie
16/4/2015 04:41:39 pm

I wonder if her reaction is to the superwash treatment. Lily has a couple of cardies that she finds itchy and its always superwash yarn. The superwash treatment really does mess with the natural properties of wool. :(

Georgie
16/4/2015 04:43:43 pm

Sam, I should mention being a Victorian is you're on the western side of the state and ever near Colac it would be worth trying the Tarndie yarn. It's really lovely and quite reasonably priced.

Linda Uzu link
16/4/2015 02:21:57 pm

Interesting post. I actually find the Australian Indie Yarn scene pretty difficult to navigate. I don't have Facebook and the few times I've googled for information, nothing much has come up.

To be honest, I also find that many of the colours I've come across don't appeal to me. I prefer knitting with naturals and tweedy yarns and although perhaps I'm just missing a whole lot of stuff, most yarns I have come across I don't want to knit with. I do use a lot of BWM for my kids as the price and quality is exactly what I like for toddler knits that are treated poorly by the little owners.

I guess it's just easier to jump online and grab a good amount of BT or Q&C even though it goes against many of my principles.

Linda. :)

Georgie
16/4/2015 04:40:18 pm

Linda, have you tried the natural colours from Tarndie one of the companies I mentioned above? They are very lovely.

Bennet and Gregor also have a fabulous range of natural colours and tweeds
http://www.bennettandgregor.com/products/in-the-woolroom/naturally-coloured-millspun-wool-yarn-for-handknitting-and-crochet

Linda Uzu link
16/4/2015 05:45:19 pm

I haven't. Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to check them out. :)

Rachelle Crosbie link
16/4/2015 02:56:42 pm

I'm a mix with my knitting. Some is my handspun and a reasonable amount of my spinning fibre is locally sourced. I also have a fair bit of New Zealand yarn in my knitting stash, though there is still some imported and of course some of the indie dyed yarn I have sourced here may well have come in from overseas as well.

Georgie
16/4/2015 04:45:40 pm

It sounds like you've got a good mix there, Rachelle.

You raise one of the issues with indie dyers, if we don't know what their base is it's hard to know that the origins of the yarn is, whether they are processed locally (NZ), a local yarn or even processed in China.

Steph
16/4/2015 02:59:21 pm

After living in and almost exclusively buying local from four different countries over the last six years, I feel like I have a bit of a world view of local markets these days! The UK has been hands down the easiest place to consistently buy local as the market there is huge, with such diversity (indie dyers, rare breeds, big business bulk...). A lot of bulk yarn is still spun in Italy for example, although attention is being paid to locally grown, washed, spun and dyed yarn.
My current home in Japan is not quite so friendly to the local yarn, with most shops that I've found so far stocking imported 'big brands', but its still early days here.
Philosophically, I think in this age of intense globalisation, its our responsibility to source our yarn, like many of our consumer products, in an ethical and environmentally friendly way. Also, isn't it endlessly boring to see the same yarns trolled out by designers worldwide again and again!

Georgie
16/4/2015 04:48:13 pm

I've heard so many great things about what's happening in the UK, Steph, good to get your perspective. And I love what you say about designers all trolling out the same yarns. So true!

Carmel
16/4/2015 03:09:48 pm

I really value supporting the Australian industry, so use BWM. They spin the yarn for Biggan Designs, based in Brisbane, so that's another local yarn worth buying

Mavis Duncanson
16/4/2015 04:00:54 pm

I have recently moved back to New Zealand and interestingly enough one of the first things I have done is to seek out local woollen mills and yarn producers. In Aussie I bought a lot through Facebook from indie dyers (actually still working through that stash so haven't actually bought anything here yet). l do like the idea of knowing the provenance of my yarn. Price is an issue, and the other problem I have is the small volumes often available. But at heart I am in favour of buying local as much as possible.

Taryn (forkandneedle) link
16/4/2015 04:29:15 pm

I am a New Zealander and the daughter of several generations of sheep farmer, and now married to one myself, so am passionate about our wool. We have sheep primarily for their meat, and they produce coarse wool that tends to be used in carpets, etc. Last year we replaced all our house's carpet and chose to go against the trend and purchase Cavalier Bremworth 100% NZ wool - and it's a delight every time my toes touch it!
I buy in quilting fabric from the USA, but try very hard to purchase as much of my yarn from my homeland as possible. I am lucky that we have some awesome mills - like Skeinz and the Bruce Woollen Mill that produce wool under their own labels, and for many other companies. I know the attraction of Malabrigo etc, but are they really any nicer than a gorgeous Touch Yarn, which I know was grown, milled and dyed all in my home province? Price wise there is a wide range in what is available, but luckily I can usually find delicious yarn that doesn't shock my wallet by knowing that it can be purchased elsewhere for half the price, like buying patchwork fabric can.
Yes, I am not Australian, but as a passionate knitter I know the desire for delicious yarns. Luckily it is possible for me to buy local - though I am hankering for some of your Bendigo Woollen Mills' delicious-ness!

Georgie
16/4/2015 04:55:57 pm

What fabulous heritage, Taryn. I am so envious of NZ's ability to protect and hold onto your milling industry and I am so disappointed at how far Australia has fallen in this regard. It was really disheartening when CSIRO closed their mill a number of years ago forcing small producers to go overseas for processing.

I am really looking forward to visiting Design Spun when I visit New Zealand in August. I totally agree with you in regards to Touch Yarn, it is exceptionally lovely yarn!

Lesley
16/4/2015 06:58:44 pm

Still really only a new knitter though i do try. I try as much as possible to buy australian where i can, price does factor into things as does accessability, as i work long hours, but i much prefer to be able to touch and feel what im using, whether its fabric, wool, or any craft supply, its getting harder and harder to do as more and more bricks and mortar stores close. Luckily i know what some of these wools feel like or ive used them before so i order online from regular sources.

Shortly link
16/4/2015 09:56:14 pm

I've dabbled in buying overseas and have bought things at times I've been really disappointed by - my first two Malabrigo purchases resulted in cardigans I frogged to reuse the yarn for accessories, which made me wonder about reputation versus reality.
But most of my yarn purchases of late have been at KAN and Unwind - mostly local yarn, and I've had a chance to see some smaller local producers with lovely product. We are so fortunate to have Skeinz here with their fantastic bases for Indie dyers - but of course we still hanker after the special imports (yes, I do confess to having that lovely RRHY sparkle base 4 ply wound and calling to me!!).
But in terms of 'food miles' and 'yarn miles', I think that there will likely always be the special things that you decide is worth the extra yarn miles - the sparkle base, or the stunning dyeing of Madelinetosh - just like I *have* to have my Japanese Mayo for sushi making!! Nothing else comes close...

Corrina
17/4/2015 07:32:55 pm

A really interesting and important topic and something I've found myself discussing quite often lately with knitters and non-knitters alike.

I like to support the local industry (I kind of count Australia and New Zealand here) by purchasing local yarn or purchasing from indie dyers and designers. I also like to purchase ethically where I can - and the more I know about the path of provenance of the yarn the happier I am.

That said I do have a weakness for Quince & Co yarn and I do like to try other yarns. Madtosh is definitely on my wish list.

I would really like to see the kind of activity that is happening in the UK and the US happen here. I think people like Clara Parkes and Pam Allen are really inspiring. I am super stoked on the work of Kylie Gusset.

I have supported Adagio Alpaca Mill's kickstarter to get an Alpaca Mill up and running. I figure every little bit helps and that's another way to support local.

Catherine
23/4/2015 09:21:36 pm

I've bought quite a bit of both. I've bought wool from overseas both online and as a souvenir when I've been travelling. I do like to try and buy Australian wool as well though, particularly as I'm the daughter of a grazier, I grew up on a sheep station. It took me quite a while to find the more 'luxurious' of the local options, even with the powers of google, and one thing I still find challenging is working out how much of the product was actually processed locally. I recently discovered Mosley Park and they have some lovely wools.

bluenut
18/5/2015 05:13:50 pm

What a fascinating article. Recently, I've been thinking about where to find local, non-superwash wool, inspired by Amy Herzog's collaboration with Clara Parkes. I love undyed yarns with natural shades - i.e. those made from coloured sheep. The companies mentioned here by Georgie and fellow posters are very helpful and introduced me to a few I hadn't yet heard of - thanks everyone!

So, I wanted to pass some of my recent discoveries on that I don't think have been mentioned yet:

- Karoa Fibres (www.karoafibres.com.au)
They have 3 and 8 ply yarn spun from their coloured Bond-merino cross sheep, in a few different natural shades, it was spun at an Australian mill before it closed. Also, they've recently begun dyeing their natural light brown-grey colours, to give lovely muted heathers. To buy their yarn, you either need to go to a market where they are at or ring them up. I am making a jumper for my husband out of the 3 ply "AV1" held doubled, and its gorgeous. (It also softens up a lot on washing).

- North East Yarns (www.northeastyarns.com)
Are a community of farms from Victoria's north east that combined forces to make it possible for them to create yarn. The most recent lot was spun in NZ. Some of their yarn (if not all) is 100% Corriedale. I bought a sweater quantity of semi-worsted spun worsted weight yarn from them on the weekend in a gorgeous natural deep chocolate brown that I'm just itching to knit up.

---

The other things I've found are three useful resources if you're interested in yarn, wool, and how it get's made:

1) Knit fm (by Pam Allen from Quince and Co and Hannah Fettig) have two podcasts on yarn and another where Hannah interviews Clara Parkes on breed specific wool
Website:http://knit.fm/

2) Craftsy has a free class on breed specific wool
Website: http://www.craftsy.com/class/know-your-wool/101

3) There is an interview with Blacker yarn's owner about what the different commercial yarn constructions are, and how these change how yarn behaves - fascinating!
Website: http://wovember.com/2013/11/15/sue-blacker-on-woollen-vs-worsted-mill-spinning/

Hope it's okay to post this information, but I've found it fascinating and wanted to share.


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